Jacob Asghar discovers the unexpected side of Geneva
Then many of us think of Geneva we think of a hub of finance, a long history of pioneering watchmakers and a legacy of producing some of the most delicious chocolate on earth. With reference to holidays, we see it as little more than a gateway to the Alps, a necessary stop one makes come ski season before the real fun begins. But what if all this time a truly wonderful summer getaway was hidden right under our ski goggles?
As the plane landed in Geneva thoughts of skiing and snow could not have been further from my mind. The sky was clear and the temperature sat at a comfortable 24 degrees, perfect for exploring in a light shirt and shorts. And explore we did. We were swept off on a tuk-tuk for one of the many unique meals of our visit. We savoured a delicious light lunch while being driven through the streets of Geneva, with the occasional bump adding to the excitement. After a couple of spills and many bemused onlookers, our tuk-tuk arrived in the wine country. Here we enjoyed sampling a variety of vintages from Les Perrières, the largest family-owned vineyard in Switzerland, with a history of winemaking that dates back to 1794. Internationally, Switzerland is rarely-recognised for its wines, this probably has something to do with the fact that only 2% of it is exported - locals often told us that they are not quick to share. That being said, if you’re lucky enough to be in the country’s third-largest wine-growing canton towards the end of May, take the opportunity to attend the Open Cellars, a day when over 70 local wine cellars are open to the public to showcase their latest vintages.
In the evening we headed to Dans Le Noir? and though I’d never been, having first heard of the concept of eating an unknown menu in complete darkness after its opening in London nearly two decades ago, I expected my anticipation to dull the impact. However, I could not have been more wrong. It truly is something that cannot be fully-appreciated without experiencing it yourself. Our server and guide, Raj, led us through our meal ensuring that everything ran smoothly until the end when the curtain was pulled back to reveal the wonderfully inventive dishes we’d been served.
We were very fortunate to be staying at the world-class Mandarin Oriental, Geneva - a hotel whose elegance and sophistication is as slick as the movement of a fine Patek. The hotel enjoys a peaceful setting and breathtaking views of the mountains beyond. After enjoying an expertly crafted cocktail in the MO Bar I retreated to my room for one of the best nights sleep I’d had in a long time. There’s something about waking to the sound of flowing water outside your window that is hard to beat, and the Mandarin Oriental being ideally situated overlooking the crystal clear waters of the Rhône certainly delivers.
Later, we found ourselves cruising along the Rhône while the refreshing mist of the Jet d'Eau fell from above. We enjoyed an epicurean feast on La Suisse, a stunning Belle époque paddle steamboat commissioned over a century ago with all the grandeur to match.
No summer getaway would be complete without actually taking a dip. Though most visitors opt for one of the many lake front spots, I decided to join a more local crowd at La Jonction - the exact spot where the Rhône meets the Arve. Due to the difference in water density, the two remain separate, creating a very striking contrast. Though beautiful, a dip in the Rhône is not for the faint of heart - the waters are glacial. On a hot day, however, I found it to be wonderfully revitalising.
In the final chapter of our retelling of Planes, Trains and Automobiles, or more accurately, Planes, TukTuks, and Steamboats, we ventured just outside the city to what appeared to be an empty field. Before long, we were ascending into the heavens as the sound oscillated between the roaring jets of our hot balloon and the silence of the city from 4,500ft. While taking in the panoramic views of the city and mountains, we were served a colourful selection of salads, hummus, and couscous, a light and refreshing meal that seemed very appropriate as we floated across the sky.
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