Eve Bar by Adam Handling: Caviar, Champagne and Cocktails
There is a particular kind of London evening that begins with the promise of one drink and ends several hours later, somewhere between the last Martini and the decision to order another tin of caviar. At Eve Bar by Adam Handling, this is less an accident than a carefully orchestrated way of life. Opposite the Savoy in the heart of Covent Garden, Eve has been given a glamorous new identity, bringing the playful sophistication of Michelin-starred Frog upstairs into a more intimate, late-night setting. Think dusky pink interiors, plush seating, Art Deco flourishes, wildflowers climbing the walls and a dramatic marble bar that commands the room.
The new philosophy is wonderfully uncomplicated: The Three C’s — Caviar, Champagne and Cocktails. And Eve does not attempt to suggest that one should choose between them.
This is indulgence without the usual ceremony or preciousness. Chef Adam Handling MBE’s new Ahrelia Caviar House has been created around the idea that exceptional caviar should be enjoyed generously rather than treated like a museum piece. The range spans Baerii, Oscietra, Imperial, Imperial Gold, Kaluga and Beluga, served at Eve in 50g, 125g and 250g tins. It is a particularly appealing proposition for those who like their luxury with a little less intimidation.
The food, meanwhile, comes from the Michelin-starred Frog kitchen upstairs, and it shows. Eve has long had a reputation for elevating the late-night snack, but the new menu takes that idea and covers it in caviar. Caviar hash browns, caviar dirty fries and even caviar soft serve sound almost mischievous on paper; in reality, they are exactly the sort of extravagantly playful dishes that make an evening memorable.
There is something deliciously irreverent about eating caviar this way. It is luxury, certainly, but with the rulebook tossed casually over the shoulder.
Drinks are equally compelling. The dedicated Martini menu is a particular highlight, ranging from the sharp, savoury Pickletini to the delicate, citrus-led Saketini and the wonderfully complex Dirty Tuxedo. For something more theatrical, signature cocktails bring British ingredients into play: the British Pop, with gooseberry, pineapple and woodruff; Elphaba’s Potion, combining gin and vodka with elderflower, butterfly pea, horseradish and sugar snap pea; and the Cream Tea Negroni, which manages the rather impressive feat of translating strawberry, clotted cream and Cornish gin into cocktail form.
For indecisive drinkers – or simply those with excellent instincts – the Martini and Caviar Flight offers miniature Martinis paired with spoons of Ahrelia caviar. It is difficult to imagine a more persuasive argument for ordering both.
Champagne is offered across three price points, £100, £200 and £300 a bottle, each with suggested caviar pairings. From A. Levasseur ‘Rue de Sorbier’ Brut Nature with Baerii or Imperial Gold, through to Krug Grande Cuvée paired with Beluga, and Louis Roederer Cristal 2016 with Imperial Gold or Oscietra, the combinations are designed for lingering rather than merely ticking the luxury box.
Yet what makes Eve particularly enjoyable is that, despite all the talk of caviar and Champagne, it never feels stiff. The staff are fantastic – warm, lively and clearly enjoying the room themselves, which gives the evening an infectious energy. The atmosphere builds naturally as the hours pass, making Eve equally suited to an indulgent afternoon stop, pre-theatre cocktails or a night that was supposed to be one drink and somehow becomes considerably more.
Ultimately, Eve Bar feels like Adam Handling’s idea of luxury stripped of its formality and turned up several notches. It is glamorous without being stuffy, playful without sacrificing quality and indulgent without taking itself too seriously.
And then there is the food: Michelin-starred pedigree delivered in gloriously decadent bar-food form. Come for the Martini. Stay for the caviar. Order the dirty fries. Finish with the soft serve. And, naturally, say yes to one more.
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